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Prologue: 23rd March 2013

Well, here we go again. Another long distance walk ahead of me. This time a complete circuit of Loch Ness, covering 77 miles in six days, firstly heading from Inverness to Fort Augustus along the South shore, then swapping to the North shore to join the Great Glen Way back to the capital of the highlands.
 

Grey day in the capital of the highlands

No Gibbo, Webbo or Jubbo this time, just me-o! Whilst I have no issues traveling on my own, I do fear for this blog. Without the rich vein of material I had at my disposal the last time - the fashion faux pas, the outrageous political discourse, the unnatural sounds and odours - the worth of this whole exercise could suffer. Being the sensible, clean living (some may say dull) "mr average" that I am, there is a grave danger that this could result in an endless repetition of descriptions of glorious views, atrocious weather and coronary inducing breakfasts, perhaps only occasionally punctuated with an unsubstantiated sighting of a bunny rabbit.

Time will tell! You can't say you haven't been warned.

Going by previous experience however, I am not anticipating any issues with accommodation, logistics or the chosen route thanks to my friends at Macs Adventure who have always looked after me magnificently in the past.

New boots for this trip too, which I truly regard as things of beauty - perhaps I need to get out more!

Fit like gloves

I've also packed for every eventuality. In some cases more in hope than expectation......

Ever the optimist

A first night in the Acorn Guest House, Inverness (where landlady Fiona was kind enough to let me check in early), sees me then easing myself into the trip tomorrow with a relatively straightforward 10 mile hike from Inverness to Dores, where the delightful looking Pottery House B&B awaits. The weather forecast is overcast with afternoon showers, and given recent conditions, I'm quite happy with that.

 



Day 1 - Inverness to Dores: 24th March 2013
 

A sumptuous breakfast and a long, long blether with landlord Dugie at the Acorn Guest House made it hard to drag myself away from the dining room this morning. However, last night's heavy rain had ceased and the skies, whilst still overcast were looking more promising.

I made my way to the shadows of Inverness Castle where I chose to start the walk, weaving my way between the Half Marathon runners limbering up for their 13 mile slog later this morning. Reminding myself that I only had a 10 mile saunter ahead of me made it easier to get underway.

The start (my one anyway)

A pleasant walk along the riverside past numerous grand houses, soon saw me on the outskirts of the city and heading for the countryside. I caught my first glimpse of the Caledonian Canal as I cut into Torbreck woods where the South Loch Ness Trail starts. I also caught my first sight of the mythical beast - albeit a wooden one, sponsored by Tesco (as everything in Inverness seems to be).



The offical start

Surely not......



Conditions were fine, and even although there was plenty of mud underfoot, the going was good. Enough to put a spring in your step....

 

 

 

After about five miles of muddy forest paths, the vistas opened up and Loch Ness was revealed in front of me, although only the map told me that as the mist was keeping it well hidden. It was a further three miles on, and almost at my destination Dores (pronounced Doors) before I finally got a decent view.



What lurks beneath?

Dores in most definitely a one horse town, with not much to it at all. The Pottery House however is a truly delightful B&B, and the village does have a very well known pub called The Dores Inn where I'll be treating myself to a pint tonight. Perhaps Mulder and Scully might be there too.....




The truth is out there.

Slightly longer hike tomorrow, with a 14 miler to Foyers ahead of me. Forecast is snow!

Follow todays route by clicking here.

Day 2 - Dores to Foyers: 25th March 2013

I was woken by The Prophets of Doom (in other words, two mates from Aberdeen) who dramatically foretold (in other words, texted) of the white hell (in other words, some snow) that lay in wait for me today. I would be lucky to get out alive!

Scampering to the window in a panic and throwing open the curtains allowed me to come to the realisation that, not for the first time, they were talking utter bollocks.

Overcast again but drying out after early morning rain the day looked reasonably promising, but cold. No problem for hardened mountain men like myself.

Breakfast was a culinary triumph, with John and Glen from the Pottery House looking after their only guest for the night in great style. A post breakfast blether (it must be a prerequisite for B&B owners) saw us covering all the usual Scottish pre-occupations. The weather, homemade jam, the weather, homemade shortbread... We only just stopped short of the price of tea and a scone in Drumnadrochit, although I'm sure we would have got there eventually had I hung around any longer. The Pottery Boys also surpassed all expectations by including no less than two Tunnocks Tea Cakes in my packed lunch. A "punch the air with delight" moment if ever there was one.

A couple of beauties

 

Starting from The Dores Inn (highly recommended btw...) I suffered a perilous couple of miles walking on the narrow and very busy road, before thankfully turning off into the forest. The climb took me by surprise and only got worse when I reached the Fair Haired Lads Pass, which wound its way up the hill until I was above the trees and looking over to Urquhart Castle on the other side of the loch. Once over the climb, the going was good, the weather fair with only the occasional flurry of snow to make me worry that those twats in Aberdeen were right after all. It never came to pass.

 

Aye, right - a couple of decades ago maybe.

Havin' a wee rest

Should be there in three days....

After a lengthy walk, I found myself on the disorientating Corkscrew Road plummeting down into Inveragaig, before joint another forest path with a climb that took me over to Foyers.

Twists and turns like a....twisty turny thing....

A short detour to the dizzying 165 foot drop of Falls of Foyers was certainly worthwhile, then it was down the steep path to The Foyers Bay Country Hotel where Kate, David and Lenny the Great Dane gave me the warmest of welcomes.
 



Photo doesn't do it justice



Room with a view

A similar distance of 13 miles will get me to my half way point of Fort August tomorrow where I'll round the end of the loch, and make my way over a further three days back to Inverness on the North shore.

Today's route here if anyone is interested.

And finally.......

Day 3 - Foyers to Fort Augustus: 26th March 2013

Waking to glorious views down the length of the loch, I joined Foyers Bay Country House landlord David and Great Dane Lenny for breakfast. Red squirrels enjoying the coconut on the bird table outside, and blue skies over a sprinkling of snow on the lawn made for a cracking start to the day.
 



Breakfast companion





NESSIE!!! ....or maybe it's Lenny?



After the obligatory blether after breakfast, I headed off only deciding at the last to take a detour again to see the Falls of Foyers seeing as the weather was so fine. And boy, was I glad I did. Not sure what had happened overnight but the river was in full spate, making what was an impressive sight yesterday and awesome one today!



What a difference a day makes!
 



Anyway, once the walk was underway the going was good and the weather for the most part was excellent. Cold dry and crisp, with blue patches across the entire sky. For long stretches I experienced that peculiarily Scottish phenomenon of walking in bright sunshine with the snow flakes falling all around.

No one believes the blue skies!!

A long walk today, with not much ascent, but glorious views all round. The only serious snow encountered was when climbing Suidhe Chuiment, but the compensation was the 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains.

 

 

Coming down to the shores of Loch Tarf, the skies cleared again and I walked the rest of the way to Fort Augustus in glorious sunshine.



End of the loch, and half way round!



Arrived in my shirtsleeves just in time to watch the swing bridge and the canal locks in action before heading to my lodgings for the night. The Three Bridges was a wee bit out of the village but worth the extra trek, with landlady Laura continuing the tradition of warm highland hospitality. The fact that tomorrow's route starts right outside their door also helped.

A mere 8 miles to cover to tomorrow as I pick up the Great Glen Way and head for Invermoriston.

Today's route can be found here.

Day 4 - Fort Augustus to Invermoriston: 27th March 2013
 

Another fine morning in Fort Augustus, and another glorious breakfast, thanks to Laura and her Mum Shirley in The Three Bridges B&B. My only concern was that today's short 8 mile hike would not be enough to walk it all off.

Finding the route was easy, as it was pracitcally on the doorstep, and I was soon underway on the official Great Glen Way route - clear signage keeping me on the right road all the way.

Can't really go wrong

The weather improved as the morning went on, and with an excellent surface underfoot I was picking up a decent pace, at times even dawdling as I thought I'd reach Invermoriston too soon. With the sun shining, I was tempted to reach for the SPF20 if only to serve up a big "yah boo sucks!" to those who scoffed at me for taking it in the first place. However, as I'd left it in my other bag, it wasn't an option, but if you back me up, I'll just tell them I used it anyway - they'll never know otherwise!

The route on this side of the loch certainly affords more photo-ops with glorious views up and down the loch at every turn.

Approaching Invemoriston

Blizzards in Aberdeen.....blah...blah...blah.....



As predicted, I was in Invermoriston before lunchtime. Sisters Lindsey and Manda of the Craik na Dav B&B were only too happy to welcome me early however, and took great delight in showing me (over a lovley cup of tea) numerous photos and videos of the red squirrels, pine martins and huge variety of birdlife that are regular visitors to their garden.

With most of the afternoon still to go, I popped back out again and had a wee wander round the village, taking in the Thomas Telford bridge, and the Falls of Invermoriston.

Thomas Telford - busy fella!

Falls of Invermoriston

Today's route can be viewed here.

All in all, a very pleasant day. Nothing of any consequence happened, and nothing much to report at all. No siree! Nothing whatsoever.....

Nothing anyone would believe anyway!

Disclaimer: The events depicted in this movie are fictitious. Any similarity to any person or creature either living, dead or mythical is merely coincidental. It could also be the shittest video ever uploaded to YouTube.





Day 5 - Invermoriston to Drumnadrochit: 28th March 2013


Now, I know no one believes me any more, but weather-wise this morning was the best yet, with a cloudless deep blue sky greeting me when I threw open the curtains. It almost made me feel sorry for all those Aberdonians shivering under another blanket of fresh snow. Almost. Couldn't resist a gloating picture update by email & facebook though.

Last night's meal at the Craik Na Dav B&B was rounded off by an after dark appearance of a pine martin on the bird table outisde the dining room window, but I wasn't quick enough to capture it on camera. However, Manda & Lindsey's other regular visitor made an appearance for breakfast, along with an entire avairy worth of bridlife. There was also plenty of indoors animal life to keep me amused.



Another breakfast visitor

One of EIGHT robins in the garden

Skye, Fraser and (inevitably) Angus!

Anyway, after yet another sumptuous breakfast I was soon en route to Drumnadrochit, drinking in the glorious views both up and down the loch. A wee detour to the imaginatively named "Stone Seat Viewpoint" was worth the short climb, and the weather played it's part in ensuring magnificent views in all directions for the rest of the day.

View from "The Stone Seat"

Looking back down the loch from about half way up

It was intersting to see Foyers where I'd previsouly stayed, on the oppostie shore. Fascinating wee place, that claims the first aluminium smelting plant in Britain (1896!), the first place in Britain to have electric street lighting (again, late 1890s thanks to the hydro electric planty that was built to feed the smelter), and the first place in Scotland to have flushing toilets (and if you beleive some people, that was probably in 1974!). It was also home at one time to Jimmy Page of Led Zeppelin fame.

Across to Foyers - was it really three days ago?

So what with the weather, and yesterday's drama (some would say melodrama), it was nice to get back to the old routine today......

It was a fair old hike to Drumnadrochit today, the route of can be found here. Some pretty challenging climbs, but all made worthwhile by the glorious vistas.

I was however very glad to see my accomodation for tonight, where landlady Mary of Tramps B&B gave me yet another warm highland welcome.

By the way, the name of this fine esatablishment is "Tramps" as in tramping or hiking before any of you get any ideas......

Last day tomorrow, with the longest walk of the trip ahead of me taking me back to Inverness. Bit of a debate as to how long this walk actually is (depends which map you are using). Some say 18 miles, some say 22 - so I'll split the difference and go for 20. If the weather keeps up, I won't mind how far it is.

Day 6 - Drumnadrochit to Inverness: 29th March 2013


Well, Mary the proprietress of Tramps, took blethering to new and dizzying heights. Superb company over tea and scones yesterday afternoon, and again over breakfast this morning, she made it difficult to tear myself away. Quite how we got onto the topic of bag snatching on the Paris Metro (she was the victim, rather than the perpetrator by the way), I'll never know - but got onto it we did, and a myriad of other topics in between. The weather was not helping to get me started either, as a grey overcast morning was in prospect, with a chilling wind whipping up. A quick check of the map also confirmed that I had a lenghty 20 miles ahead of me. I was on the verge of checking bus timetables, but somehow I dragged myself into action and was soon on en route to Inverness (or Inbhir Nis as I now like to call it!).

All Greek to me!

Having jostled with the mighty beast a couple of days before, and having the video evidence to prove it, I was disappinted in The Loch Ness Centre's represenation of my deadly foe. A poor likeness indeed. No hat for starters!

Pah!

Yeah, well....we're all fragile luvvie - get over yourself!

Anyway, I soon picked up a decent pace if only to keep warm. Great views looking back to Urquhart Castle were soon available and although I was in the teeth of a stong wind I could see shelter in the form of thick woods ahead. A case of head down, shoulders hunched and getting stuck in - the is walking in Scotland after all! Too much good weather recently had made me soft.

The iconic Urquhart Castle

Thankful for the shelter

As I climbed higher the winds picked up even more, and while no new snow fell there was plenty left over from a few days ago, kept solid by the wind in the more exposed parts. Stopping was not really an attractive option, but I had commitments to fulfil....

....and you thought I'd forgotten!

After some pretty strenuous walking and a fair amount of battling with the wind I was relieved to see Inverenss on the horizon. Working my way down past the canal, the wind dropped as I reached the outskirts of the city and the last couple of miles were rather pleasant. Soon, I'd weaved my way through Ness Islands, along the walkway beside the river, and was making my way up the rise to the castle and my ultimate goal. 



Inverness Castle - which means......



The End

Once the obligatory photos were taken, I once again made my way down to the Acorn Guest House, where Fiona made me feel as welcome as before and I was soon checked in and settled down to finish off this wee blog.

Today's slog...er..I mean route, can be found here.

Off out in a bit to meet the only fellow walker I encoutered in the whole six days - drink will be taken! (although with the SNP in town for their conference this weekend, I think we'll be lucky to get in anywhere!).

Anyhoo.....that just about wraps things up for this wee blog. I may add a short epilogue tomorrow, but I hope you've enjoyed it and that it's perhaps inspried you to get out and experience this beautiful country of ours. Then I can read your blogs for a change!

 

 

 

Epilogue: 30th March 2013

 

 



Homeward bound.....